I intend to post questions and answers to some of the most commonly asked questions raised by visitors to the blog. If you want to ask anything or suggest alternative answers please use the comments section below.
How is the ovens temperature controlled?
Temperature adjustment is very primitive. The oven reaches maximum temperature after about 3 hours of firing. I am waiting to buy a temperature gauge but have been told that the ovens ambient temperature can reach up to approximately 450 degrees C (and the brick floor even hotter). I know it gets hot enough to cook pizzas in 30 seconds (and singe the front of my hair off every time I fire it!). If I am cooking pizzas or bread then I keep a small fire burning in the back to keep the temperature up although it does drop after the initial firing (after an hour or so pizzas will take 1 to 1.5 minutes to cook!) If you wanted to cook meat it would scorch at these high temps so the best method is to scrape the embers out, wrap the meat in foil, pop in roasting tin then whack her in the oven. If you then block the chimney and door opening you can apparently leave it overnight (or for several hours) to slow cook as the oven temperature decreases. You would then probably finish it off by browning in a conventional oven, on a BBQ or firing up the clay oven again and popping the joint back in, uncovered for a few minutes.
What type of clay should I use?
I have had quite a few questions about the type of clay to use. As far as I know you can use any type of clay you can get your hands on. I dug my clay from a local farmer’s field here in Hampshire (clay overlying Upper Cretaceous chalk if you are geologically minded - maybe Paleogene?). The team at River Cottage get theirs from a pond on site, in Dorset (I think it is Blue Lias). If you can’t find any clay locally you could always buy potters clay which would be wonderfully homogeneous – free from large particulate matter. Which reminds me, try to get clay does not contain too many stones – they are liable to form the focus of cracks in your oven if left in the mixture.
Why is the plinth made of wood? Surely it will burn!
I chose to use wood for the plinth for two reasons. Firstly, I am really awful at building anything with bricks so the method I chose was easy for me. Secondly, the team at River Cottage HQ built their plinths using the same method and, if its good enough for them, its good enough for me.
In practice the plinth does not burn (much!). If you look at the building the plinth and oven base episode of my blog you will see that the fire (heat) does not come into contact with the wooden part of the plinth. The fire burns on the brick floor of the oven which is encased within the top of the wooden plinth box. The wood does char a little at the entrance to the oven but not so much that it will cause a major problem and you can always fix a heat proof tile there if you like.
At the end of the day its more of a practical (in terms of your construction skills) and aesthetic decision.
Is it possible to use a cement mixer to mix the clay/sand?
Unfortunately it seems the answer is not really! Lyndsey, a clayoven blog friend and fellow oven builder, recently tried the cement mixer technique but unfotunately it didn’t work. I liked his analogy which illustrates the problem:
“its very much like making pastry, with the clay being the ‘fat’ and the sand the ‘flour’.”
However, another blog visitor did get the cement mixer idea to work by firstly drying the clay, powdering it, adding it to sand in mixer then adding water. This to me seems like a rather long winded method though unless you have dried, powdered clay at hand!
I think you really do need to work the mixture and it seems puddling is the only way folks! I’d love someone to show me another way if there is one.
Where can I get clay from?
It seems that some of you are having problems sourcing clay. Ideally you will discover a free source. I managed to find a mound dumped in a local field by a local farmer but you’ll need to do some research and asking around in order to achieve this (luckily I have one of those freinds who can get hold of anhything!). Local garden centres might know where you can find clay because gardeners are obsessed with clay soils! Do you know of any local aggregate or brick making companies? Would the local council be able to help? Local geological societies or organisations? Geotechnical engineering companies? Construction firms (partic. ground workers)? Local architects? If you live near any ponds, brooks, rivers or streams you might find clay there but Of course it depends very much on your geographical location. If the local geology has been kind, you will find clay but some areas will be clay deficient. The UK has pretty extensive clay coverage due to it’s history of numerous iceages and marine transgressions (I knew my geology degree would come in handy one day!). Here is a website with lots of geological maps of the UK if you are that way inclined:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~imw/Geology-Britain.htm
If you can’t find clay locally then you’ll have to buy some. One obvious source is potters clay. I have no expereince buying potters clay but please read this post from Nic, one of my blog vistors:
“I emailed a potters in fordingbridge, they said to me i needed a clay with a good amount of grog or molochite in, this helps give it strength for such a large item. They also suggest either P1480 Earthstone Handbuild clay or the P1484 Earthstone Crank clay (both have 20% coarse). The Handbuild clay starts at £11.39 per 12.5kg bag and the crank starts at £6.96 per 12.5 kg bag. Clay is sold on a sliding scale so the more you buy in one go the base price goes down. in another email to me they said it looks like a teracotta clay B103 grogged terracotta wold be good and I could use less sand as there is already 10% grog added to the clay, they think an oven the size of yours would take 3 or 4 12.5kg bags at a cost of £22.54. The shop http://www.briarwheels.co.uk are very impressed with your link and are telling people about it.”
PLEASE NOTE THIS POST FROM JOHN RE. VOLUMES:
“Just a follow on to Nic’s note above re buying clay. I have done so but the amounts mentioned will not build an oven your size. So far I’ve used 125kg of clay ie 10 bags and reckon for my last layer will need another 3 or 4 given what I have remaining. Best be realistic and forewarned.”
You can also purchase clay from here: http://www.angliaclaysupplies.co.uk.







thanks Simon !! i guess with all this rain the one thing that I can guarantee is that its wet !!
have a bit of winter damage , and the mouth has collapsed a bit . Do I have to use anything to make the new clay mix stick to the old ???? thanks lesley
I’d make sure the old is wet before you repair. I have known people use chicken wire when more substantial repairs are required.
Best of luck
Simon
Please could you tell me why you need the sand? Is it possible to make the oven just from clay? I have lots of that and concerned about the mixing process, Many thanks , Will
Hi Will see my answer from the book below:
Can’t I use clay alone, without the sand?
The simple answer is no. The nerdy answer is as follows. The clay in these ovens does not fire in the same way that a pot might fire. It never reaches a high enough temperature for the change in chemical/physical mineralogy that occurs in kiln fired pots to occur. You can view kiln firing as 6 stages:
1. Atmospheric drying (when inter-granular water evaporates from the clay particles). This normally happens at relatively low temps in a kiln – just over 100 degrees C.
2. Burn off of carbon and sulfur (300-800 degrees C)
3. Chemically bonded water driven off (even after atmospheric water is driven off clay still contains some 14% chemically bonded water). This only happens at temps. of between 350-800 degrees C.
4. Quartz Inversion (silica changes structure)
5. Sintering. Here the oxide minerals fuse to form a ceramic. It is no longer clay at this point.
6. Vitrification
The maximum temperature you can expect wood-fired clay ovens to reach is 350-400 C. So in reality the clay never gets far beyond stage one – i.e. it is only ever at a state where atmospheric water is driven off. The outer layers never get any hotter than 70-80 degrees. This is evidenced by the fact that the clay gets washed away if left to the elements.
My experience has shown that the 2:1 ratio works but as you said it might be possible to get away with less clay (or more sand). The other limiting factor is how easy the material is to handle and use when building the dome structures. The clay volume helps keep the material plastic during construction
Sorry, bit tired, reply is for Sue!
Hi Stephen, also the wood may rot overtime (if not rain then maybe condensation?) causing instability. Not sure if you have “Freecycle” where you are but members often offer old bricks / rocks etc that could make up the core. Not as good a heat store as a brick core but is should be stable and cheap.
Another quick question, if we were to build a plinth out of wood pallets with a brick top would there be any risk to the wood? Does it NEED a rubble core?
We are trying to find a cheap/frugal way of building the oven and are considering different options.
Thank you.
I’d be careful with that idea. The oven and therefore the brick floor gets very hot (450 degrees C+). If the bricks are lying directly on wood, I think it will burn. The other reason we have a brick core is so that the base can store and radiate heat back to the oven. If you only want to ever cook hot, i.e. with a fire burning in the oven constantly, then I think you could do away with the substantial base I recommend in the book. If you can find a way of preventing too much heat penetrating through the brick base into the pallets then I think it would work. Let us know what you do.
Cheers
Simon
Also keep in mind that even if you could make the entire plinth out of brick, in order for the oven floor to get hot, the entire brick plinth would have to get hot too, making firing the oven a frustrating experience.
I had a lot of luck with cored bricks between two layers of firebricks. I was able to skip every other cored brick, creating a mostly air channel between the area with fire and the area i needed to keep cool, and this worked for me.
We are just about to start building our clay oven. The space we want to use has a fence on 2 sides. My OH is concerned about radiating heat and the effect on the fence. Do you think this could be a problem?
Not a problem at all.Good luck with it!
Hi. You say that you “dug your clay from a local farmer’s field here in Hampshire” Could you say precisely which farm and whether he would allow others to do the same? I live in Hampshire and so location would not be a problem…
Hi Stephen I’m afraid it has all gone now. It had been dug out of a pond an left at the side of a field. Sorry.
Simon
Hi Simon, no problem, thanks for the reply – I just thought it was worth a try
Stephen