I intend to post questions and answers to some of the most commonly asked questions raised by visitors to the blog. If you want to ask anything or suggest alternative answers please use the comments section below.
How is the ovens temperature controlled?
Temperature adjustment is very primitive. The oven reaches maximum temperature after about 3 hours of firing. I am waiting to buy a temperature gauge but have been told that the ovens ambient temperature can reach up to approximately 450 degrees C (and the brick floor even hotter). I know it gets hot enough to cook pizzas in 30 seconds (and singe the front of my hair off every time I fire it!). If I am cooking pizzas or bread then I keep a small fire burning in the back to keep the temperature up although it does drop after the initial firing (after an hour or so pizzas will take 1 to 1.5 minutes to cook!) If you wanted to cook meat it would scorch at these high temps so the best method is to scrape the embers out, wrap the meat in foil, pop in roasting tin then whack her in the oven. If you then block the chimney and door opening you can apparently leave it overnight (or for several hours) to slow cook as the oven temperature decreases. You would then probably finish it off by browning in a conventional oven, on a BBQ or firing up the clay oven again and popping the joint back in, uncovered for a few minutes.
What type of clay should I use?
I have had quite a few questions about the type of clay to use. As far as I know you can use any type of clay you can get your hands on. I dug my clay from a local farmer’s field here in Hampshire (clay overlying Upper Cretaceous chalk if you are geologically minded - maybe Paleogene?). The team at River Cottage get theirs from a pond on site, in Dorset (I think it is Blue Lias). If you can’t find any clay locally you could always buy potters clay which would be wonderfully homogeneous – free from large particulate matter. Which reminds me, try to get clay does not contain too many stones – they are liable to form the focus of cracks in your oven if left in the mixture.
Why is the plinth made of wood? Surely it will burn!
I chose to use wood for the plinth for two reasons. Firstly, I am really awful at building anything with bricks so the method I chose was easy for me. Secondly, the team at River Cottage HQ built their plinths using the same method and, if its good enough for them, its good enough for me.
In practice the plinth does not burn (much!). If you look at the building the plinth and oven base episode of my blog you will see that the fire (heat) does not come into contact with the wooden part of the plinth. The fire burns on the brick floor of the oven which is encased within the top of the wooden plinth box. The wood does char a little at the entrance to the oven but not so much that it will cause a major problem and you can always fix a heat proof tile there if you like.
At the end of the day its more of a practical (in terms of your construction skills) and aesthetic decision.
Is it possible to use a cement mixer to mix the clay/sand?
Unfortunately it seems the answer is not really! Lyndsey, a clayoven blog friend and fellow oven builder, recently tried the cement mixer technique but unfotunately it didn’t work. I liked his analogy which illustrates the problem:
“its very much like making pastry, with the clay being the ‘fat’ and the sand the ‘flour’.”
However, another blog visitor did get the cement mixer idea to work by firstly drying the clay, powdering it, adding it to sand in mixer then adding water. This to me seems like a rather long winded method though unless you have dried, powdered clay at hand!
I think you really do need to work the mixture and it seems puddling is the only way folks! I’d love someone to show me another way if there is one.
Where can I get clay from?
It seems that some of you are having problems sourcing clay. Ideally you will discover a free source. I managed to find a mound dumped in a local field by a local farmer but you’ll need to do some research and asking around in order to achieve this (luckily I have one of those freinds who can get hold of anhything!). Local garden centres might know where you can find clay because gardeners are obsessed with clay soils! Do you know of any local aggregate or brick making companies? Would the local council be able to help? Local geological societies or organisations? Geotechnical engineering companies? Construction firms (partic. ground workers)? Local architects? If you live near any ponds, brooks, rivers or streams you might find clay there but Of course it depends very much on your geographical location. If the local geology has been kind, you will find clay but some areas will be clay deficient. The UK has pretty extensive clay coverage due to it’s history of numerous iceages and marine transgressions (I knew my geology degree would come in handy one day!). Here is a website with lots of geological maps of the UK if you are that way inclined:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~imw/Geology-Britain.htm
If you can’t find clay locally then you’ll have to buy some. One obvious source is potters clay. I have no expereince buying potters clay but please read this post from Nic, one of my blog vistors:
“I emailed a potters in fordingbridge, they said to me i needed a clay with a good amount of grog or molochite in, this helps give it strength for such a large item. They also suggest either P1480 Earthstone Handbuild clay or the P1484 Earthstone Crank clay (both have 20% coarse). The Handbuild clay starts at £11.39 per 12.5kg bag and the crank starts at £6.96 per 12.5 kg bag. Clay is sold on a sliding scale so the more you buy in one go the base price goes down. in another email to me they said it looks like a teracotta clay B103 grogged terracotta wold be good and I could use less sand as there is already 10% grog added to the clay, they think an oven the size of yours would take 3 or 4 12.5kg bags at a cost of £22.54. The shop http://www.briarwheels.co.uk are very impressed with your link and are telling people about it.”
PLEASE NOTE THIS POST FROM JOHN RE. VOLUMES:
“Just a follow on to Nic’s note above re buying clay. I have done so but the amounts mentioned will not build an oven your size. So far I’ve used 125kg of clay ie 10 bags and reckon for my last layer will need another 3 or 4 given what I have remaining. Best be realistic and forewarned.”
You can also purchase clay from here: http://www.angliaclaysupplies.co.uk.






Hello Simon
What did you use to steak the bricks to each other (the inside bricks)? Is that a special cemente or you used the same clay. I am making one exactly the same, but not sure what to use to make the dome with.
Did you use the fire bricks just on the floor or the dome too?
Thank you mate
The bricks for the oven floor are not cemented in anyway. They are confined on four sides by the “walls” of the oven plinth (in my case oak beams). See this post for details: http://clayoven.wordpress.com/2008/09/01/2-the-plinth-foundation-plinth-and-brick-oven-floor/. Also, I didn’t use fire bricks – just normal house bricks. Finally the dome is initially constructed from sand and the clay built up around it. No bricks at all – magic! You’ll find all the instructions in the blog posts.
Good luck
Simon
Hi, Can you tell me why there is a chimney on the oven?
On most of the clay ovens I have seen on the internet, there is not a chimney…..
The oven on this blok looks fantastic, I will start to build one next week!
The chimney allows the smoke to escape – simple!
Cheers
Simon
Hi Simon
Once again thank-you for your excellent instructions.
Oven finished a couple of weeks ago – photos at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37752859@N07/sets/72157617916084485/
Very pleased indeed with the oven. Ours has an internal diameter of about 70cm and is about as small as I’d like to go. We have made a peel by trimming a baking tray with tin snips and screwing to a broom handle (end planed to half round) and can fit 12″ pizza into the oven with a fire still burning at the back. After a couple of pizzas we decided that it was easier to make 8-10″ pizzas as they were easier to get on and off the peel.
Oven seems to take a while to get up to temp – 2hrs – maybe I just need to put more wood on. Get the fire to light is dead easy – we use a fire lighter (maybe not eco friendly) which makes it as easy as pie – no problems with it going out.
Thinking of making a door … using a stone tile that sort of fits at the moment. All in all a great project and the pizzas are as I remeber pizza from large ovens in Corsica many years ago – ‘au feu de bois’ – just amazing. And the kids love it too.
Jeremy Milsom
It looks fabulous Jeremy. Well done.
Simon
Hi Simon
Thanks for your excellent instructions. Just fired for the first time having finished the first layer last night. Seems to be going well so far, helped by the nice weather I guess.
My oven is a similar size to yours. How much clay do I need for the insulation layer? I’m going to put it in water for a couple of days – but do I need half a bucket of clay? or one bucket of clay? or …. to make enough material for the insulation layer.
Thanks
Jeremy Milsom
Marshfield
Hi Jeremy
to be honest I can’t remember how much clay I used for the slip mix. You don’t need as much as you use for the other layers because the slip is not very thick (you need to go for a consistency like yoghurt). A bucket should be plenty.
Good luck with it – you have the perfect weather for building (and more importantly, drying!).
Simon
Hello,
Just thought i’d throw in another idea regarding the construction.
Rather than using sand to make the dome, we used chicken wire to construct a dome wire skeleton with entrance (We actually used a “beach ball” to mould the wire over to get the dome). This chicken wire structure then stayed in place while the clay layer was formed over the top, and clay smoothed over the inside of it too.
We then used ready-to-use potters clay, the chicken wire added rigidity, and I think will lessen the chances of a collapse in future. We then seperately did the same thing for the chimney, and later mated the two parts together, made a brick arch, and added the final finishing layers over the top of the whole thing to fuse them into one piece.
We have had the thing a couple of years now, its quite a focal point in the garden. Standing over 5 foot tall from top of dome to base of plinth.
I love the idea of using wood to form the plinth, excellent idea. Doing the brickwork for the plinth was HARD work, a nightmare.
Actually scrap that link I think it reads up to 500 .F but not .C!
Simon
Many thanks for all the info. I have followed your instructions religiously and just about to apply the final layer.The weather has been very favourable.
Is there a company which sells peels and oven thermometers ? I will probably make a peel but the thermometers I have seen in the shops locally peak at 300 .c. I guess they would explode with the temperatures reached.
many thanks
steve
Hi Steve
Good luck with the final layer. As for thermometers, I have not found one yet that measures ambient temperatures any higher than 300 .c either. It is easy to get hold of the infrared devices but these only measure spot/surface temperatures. I just did a search though and found this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oven-Dial-Thermometer-for-Sculpey,-Fimo,-Polymer-Clay_W0QQitemZ260324419836QQcmdZViewItem
Let me know how you get on.
Best wishes
Simon
Hi guys,
It just sounds like the process would fail, using wet clay and sand in a mixer… unless you go with an idea from an Aussie at traditionaloven.com . He says to cut the clay into slices and let it dry, then pound it into powder with a hammer. THEN, mix it with the sand and add water. By putting it into a cement mixer, that should make the puddling process MUCH easier… I have just started my oven and it was a very tiring process.
-Mike
I was thinking of that technique a while back Mike. Dried, powdered clay, mixed into a slip then add sand. Getting the correct water content might be a problem though. I agree that the puddling technique is a little tiring but it’s great excercise and if you make sure the clay is nice and wet before hand it is so much easier.
Simon
Hi, I wonder if the cement mixer idea would work if you added some large steel balls (Like used in the French game) Not sure if it would damage the mixer though?
Thanks for sharing your experience of making a Pizza oven. Wish I had seen this first before I made mine!
Still will see in a couple of weeks time if it will survive a first firing.
Tony
Hi Tony. Your idea might work but I wouldn’t want to risk testing it out on a hired cement mixer. Anyone out there who owns one and is willing to give it a go?
Make sure you post some photos of yours Tony when you have it up and running.
Best Wishes
Simon
I have just built my first oven (first bake tomorrow – very excited!) I used a cement mixer and it worked great. I was using clay sub soil from my garden, which I dried out for a few days and tumbled to a powder in the cement mixer with a couple of half bricks for half an hour or so. It does need to be reasonably dry, otherwise the clay sticks to its self as it tumbles.
Then to make the mix up I tumbled the clay powder and sand together first to combine them evenly then added water.
The preparation is a bit of faff – spreading the clay out to dry (and protecting it from the rain) and there is a lot of digging and shovelling to do, however, on building day the cement mixer really comes into its own as it only takes about 5 minutes to mix up a batch.
I can attest to the quality of the pizzas cooked in this very oven – quite splendid!
Fabulous! I had a suspicion that drying the clay was the way forward when using a cement mixer. Thanks for trying it out and sharing with the Clay Oven Blog.
Enjoy the food this weekend and don’t forget to post some photos for us all to see.
Best wishes
Simon